AUTUMN IN CASCAIS: SUN, SEA, ART & WINE

When the weather in Germany turns grey in November, we like to spend time somewhere with more light, mild temperatures and enough substance for a longer stay. Cascais fits that rhythm. It is close to Lisbon, directly by the sea and easy enough to settle into once you understand its layout. Sea air, good food, Portuguese wine, art and time outside were high on our list. In Cascais, there is usually a good option for the day. You can walk along the coast in the morning, visit a museum in the afternoon, go for coffee in town, play golf nearby and end the day with Portuguese wines and small plates.

There is also plenty to explore nearby: Sintra and its national park, with hiking trails and palaces, the dramatic coast north towards Nazaré or south towards Setúbal, and of course Lisbon, just about 30 minutes away by train. The train ride itself is part of the pleasure, following the coast for much of the way. Thus, for us, Cascais feels like a place where we can spend a vacation, and we could easily imagine spending part of the winter there.

Cascais is often described as a former fishing village on the coast near Lisbon. In the late 19th century, the Portuguese royal family began spending summers here, and Cascais developed into a seaside retreat with villas, hotels and a more polished resort character. Today, Cascais is part of the Lisbon metropolitan area, and the municipality has more than 200,000 inhabitants. You feel that scale once you move beyond the old center: the town stretches along the coast, connects with Estoril and reaches inland into residential areas, roads, schools, shops and everyday infrastructure.

The older center is still the part most visitors see first. It has narrow streets, restaurants, small shops, beaches, the marina and a long promenade.

The coastline is stunning. From the centre, you can walk or cycle via Boca do Inferno and Casa da Guia, with its cafés and restaurants, towards Guincho Beach. Above Guincho, the Duna da Cresmina gives you a different view of the landscape, with a short circular walking trail through the dunes.

Once you move away from the center and the coast, Cascais becomes wider and more residential. The roads are larger and the traffic layout can be confusing at first. It no longer feels like a small seaside resort.

Cascais also has a visible art scene. You find it around the old centre, the marina, the fortress area and the waterfront. Casa das Histórias Paula Rego is the main place to visit. Paula Rego was a Portuguese-British artist, known for figurative paintings and prints that often turn familiar stories into something darker and more psychologically charged. The building is easy to recognise, with its red concrete, strong shapes and two pyramid-like towers. Around the old fortress and the marina, there are smaller exhibitions, installations and cultural spaces. The installations around the fortress are especially worth a visit. We like cities where art is part of the streets, squares and daily walks.

In Cascais, we found a great place to do that: The Tasting Room.

It is a wine bar with a stylish interior where you can also order small dishes. They have a large selection of Portuguese wines, and many of them are available by the glass. The owner and staff are very friendly, know the wines well, and give helpful recommendations.

On our last trip, we spent several evenings there.

It is the whole package: the stunning Atlantic coast, great food & wine, nice cafés, an interesting art scene, the opportunity to play golf and plenty to explore around. All that combined with a mild winter climate.