REIMS: MORE THAN A STOP ON THE WAY

We stopped in Reims for an afternoon and evening on our way to Nantes. We were looking for a stop in a place that felt appealing, had a few things to discover, and offered a pleasant break from the drive.

Reims is one of the main cities of Champagne, and the connection is visible everywhere: in the large houses, the cellars, the shop windows and the names on the buildings. Champagne has left its mark on the city’s architecture, economy and self-image.

That connection is easy to see on the ground. Reims is home to several major Champagne houses, and many of their cellars sit beneath the city. A short stay makes the link between place, production and trade tangible: the grand houses, the chalk cellars, the tasting rooms, the shop windows and the long commercial history behind Champagne.

But Reims is not only about champagne. The cathedral, Art Deco details, cafés, restaurants and the streets around the centre give you plenty to explore beyond the cellars.

We are not the people who visit every church, but this one was absolutely worth it. Reims Cathedral is one of the great Gothic cathedrals of France and, for centuries, it was the place where French kings were crowned. It is also part of a UNESCO World Heritage site. The atmosphere inside is impressive thanks to the sheer scale and the light. The windows are amazing as they show a mix of styles. Alongside the older stained glass, there are also modern windows by well-known artists, including Marc Chagall and Imi Knoebel.

We also wanted to visit a Champagne house, and while looking for wine bars we came across the newly opened Le 3 by Champagne Thiénot.

The concept sounded interesting, and because it is right in the city centre, it was easy to get to on foot. So we went there and liked it a lot. The space itself is worth seeing. It is set in a former convent, and that contrast is part of what makes it interesting. The older structure is still very present, but it has been paired with a calm, modern interior that feels clean and understated rather than overly designed. What we really liked about it was that it fits exactly the kind of place we are drawn to: wine, but with architecture, history and culture still very much in the picture.

We also liked the way the visit had been designed. You can go without an appointment and move through the exhibition at your own pace. The different steps of Champagne production are explained clearly, and the whole presentation is very hands-on. You can try things out rather than just read panels on the wall. We especially liked the scent samples. The visit is informative, but still relaxed enough for a travel afternoon. You can also book a tasting there, but as it was already getting late, we decided to have an aperitif at the bar instead.

The view over the rooftops of Reims is very nice, especially in the evening. It is a pleasant place to sit for a while, have a glass of Champagne and look out over the city.

For dinner, we went to Gabrielle.

The room is contemporary, with floor-to-ceiling windows and a direct view of the cathedral. We really liked that combination: good design and a setting that still felt relaxed. The kitchen matched that well. The food was very good, the atmosphere had energy without getting loud, and the service was warm and easy. For us, it was a very fitting combination of wine, design, architecture and food.

It was simply a very enjoyable evening.

Glass of white wine and bread on a restaurant table at Gabrielle in Reims.

Reims felt like a very good stop because it brought together the things we enjoy when travelling: exploring, art and architecture, good food and wine. We visited the cathedral, got a better sense of Champagne as a place, went to Thiénot, had a glass overlooking the city, and ended the evening at Gabrielle.

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