NANTES: CITY LIFE | CULTURE | WINE

A return to Nantes after more than 25 years: art and culture along the green line, the Loire, old shipyards and a city that has actively shaped its own change.

Explore Nantes in this short audio conversation

Based on original content and research by Wine all the Way. AI was used to create the audio conversation. The final version was reviewed and approved by our team.

Nantes has a special place in our story. We spent a semester abroad here in the 1990s, became a couple, and found one of our first real connections to wine. At the time, we were studying together in Bayreuth and spent a semester abroad in Nantes. There, we joined a student wine club and began to learn more about wine. Back in Bayreuth, we founded our own student wine club with a local wine merchant and organized regular tastings. 

We had not been back to Nantes for more than 25 years. So we were very curious to rediscover the city. Nantes has changed a lot in a very positive sense. The center still has its historic places. But many of the former industrial and harbor areas have been reworked. After the shipyards declined, Nantes began to rethink these areas. It used the break to shape new spaces for culture, digital businesses, creative work, housing and public life. The old harbor and shipyard areas are still recognizable, but now have new functions.

In the center, Nantes still shows its history. Passage Pommeraye, with its stairs, galleries and shop windows, is one example. It feels very French, almost like it could be in Paris: a passage that connects different levels and streets.

The Château des ducs de Bretagne is a must-visit: Nantes was the historic capital of Brittany and is still closely tied to Breton identity. The city became wealthy by Atlantic trade and profited massively from the slave trade. Nantes acknowledges this part of its history and makes it visible through a memorial as well as a public history path.

Overall, the center feels active and accessible. The city has great infrastructure, with tram lines, broad pedestrian areas, bike lanes, public spaces, and attractive parks. The city feels planned with the people who live there in mind, and for us, it is a great example of a very livable city.

Jardin des Plantes is a good stop if you are looking for some quiet in the city buzz. It sits close to the station and has a lot to discover: old glasshouses, planting beds, artistic interventions, and a nice cafe in the orangerie.

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Une partie de banane – Ador × Studio Katra
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The clearest sign of Nantes’ structural change is the Île de Nantes. This was once a place of shipyards, docks and industrial work. After the decline of these activities, the area could easily have become a leftover zone. Instead, it became one of the city’s main development areas. Nantes upgrades these former industrial areas and gives them new functions in the city. Today, the island combines spaces for culture, architecture, housing, offices, studios, schools, and public areas.

Digital and creative industries are part of this shift. So are cultural institutions, design projects and shared workspaces. Old cranes, buildings, and industrial elements still shape the area and keep the working harbor visible in the city.

Les Machines de l’Île, a cultural project with large mechanical animals and moving constructions on the former shipyard site, is a perfect example of this shift. The large mechanical animals and constructions use metal, wood, movement, and engineering to connect the industrial site with the imagination of Jules Verne, who was born in Nantes. We were a little sceptical, but the place is really fascinating and definitely worth a visit.

One of the best ways to discover Nantes is to follow the green line. Le Voyage à Nantes marks a route through the city with a painted green line on the ground. It leads from one site to the next: artworks, courtyards, viewpoints, museums, passages, public spaces and places you might otherwise miss. We spent days with it, sometimes following it properly, sometimes leaving it and picking it up again later.

It sounds almost too simple. In practice, it works very well. The line gives you direction and helps you to walk through Nantes with open eyes. For me, it also became a good way to photograph the city: small details, art installations, old façades, new buildings, river views, and food and drinks along the way. The green line also says something about how Nantes thinks about culture. Nantes puts art into streets, parks, courtyards, and former industrial areas so it becomes part of everyday experience. Museums are part of the route, but they are not the only places where you encounter culture here.

Water shapes Nantes in different ways. The Loire marks the shift between the historic center and the Île de Nantes. The center feels more classic, while the island has a more industrial and experimental character. On the island, there are several spots to hang out by the river, enjoy views of the city, and watch the sunsets. A quiet spot for a snack or a coffee break is Ravito, close to the passerelle. If you like it more lively, head to Hangar à Bananes – a row of old warehouses. There, you will find a broad variety of restaurants and bars as well as theaters and galleries. 

The Erdre shows another side of Nantes. Part of the river was filled in during the 20th century, which helped create some of the broad boulevards in the center. It also explains some of the slightly leaning houses you notice while walking through the city. Further north, the Erdre becomes quieter and greener. Around the Île de Versailles, you can walk along the water, cross small footbridges, and visit the Japanese garden.

Nantes also has a lot to offer for food and wine lovers. There are all kinds of cafes, bakeries, restaurants, and places along the water. There is something for every taste and style, from very simple places to Michelin-starred restaurants. If you like to buy food for a picnic or for cooking at home, the Marché de Talensac is also worth a stop, although we were a little overwhelmed by the range and choice.

Muscadet is the local wine around Nantes. The vineyards are outside the city, toward the Pays Nantais and the Atlantic side of the region. The wine is fresh, clear, and usually rather light, and it works well with seafood. A good place in the city to learn more about Muscadet is the Muscadothèque. It is dedicated to the wines of the region and gives an overview of different styles, producers, and vintages. We had a great evening there with the friendly owner, who guided us through the range and gave us a tip for a winery to visit. You can find the article about our trip to the Pays Nantais here.

The evening was also a good reminder of how helpful it is to know a few wine-related words in the local language when travelling. We were glad we had put together our multilingual Wine Tasting Vocabulary before the trip, as it made the conversation much easier.

We liked Nantes a lot and were impressed by how it has developed. The city seems to have a clear vision of how to prepare for the future and, more importantly, how to become attractive for the people who live there. The old Nantes is still there, but the city has done a lot with its former harbor and shipyard areas. This adds a contemporary aspect to the city, which we really liked.

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